They can judge if the resistance has changed, what sound it made while hammering it in, and how long the shank was. The best way to judge the quality of a piton is by the person who placed it. If you have a hammer with you, hit the piton carefully to judge the quality based on the sound.Check the strength of the piton in the rock.Assess corrosion condition due to rust.Estimate the pitons' position and rock quality.The condition of pitons is more difficult to check than bolts: However, they are still indispensable, because a good piton in solid rock is a safe fixed point if you have placed it yourself. Before the advent of bolts, pitons were used in alpine climbing as protection Nowadays, they are found mainly on classic alpine routes. Pitons or pins are hammered into cracks using a hammer. Bolts must have sufficient distance to cracks, holes, edges, etc.Strange-looking self-made bolts must always be questioned and well-examined.Torque test with carabiner on adhesive bolts (clip carabiner crosswise into chemically bonded bolt and exert a lever, if the bolt moves, it is not secure anymore).Thread on mechanical bolts far above the nut (also bad).Rust means corrosion and is caused by heat, humidity, exhaust gases and saltwater (very bad, pay attention to the slightest signs of damage and stay cautious).The following indicators can be used when checking the condition of the bolt: In addition, the entire cone, expansion element and anchor body must also be placed as far into the hole as they can go. When fixing mechanical bolts, it is important to ensure that the rock is not cracked and that a distance of at least 15 cm to any cracks, holes and edges is maintained. Chemically bonded bolts have the highest strength, but at the same time, they are extremely susceptible to mistakes when being placed. One is the bolt itself and the other is the hanger.īoth chemically bonded and mechanical bolts are safe anchor points if they are correctly fixed in solid rock. They always consist of at least two components. Mechanical bolts, on the other hand, grip the rock of a drilled hole without glue, either through an undercut system or a thread in the rock. Chemically bonded bolts are bonded in the drilled hole with a quick-setting cement or a two-part resin. Bolts can be largely divided into two categories: chemically bonded and mechanical bolts.
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